By - Papiya Mahanti

“Fashion shouldn’t cost the earth”- Environmental Audit Company.

In our minds, we almost instinctively associate the word ‘Cotton’ with words like ‘comfort’ and ‘natural’ – it is the ‘green’ fabric to us. 

Cotton is soothing to the skin, natural and biodegradable – but is it that good from the perspective of the environment?

Cotton is an incredibly thirsty crop. It takes 2700 litres of water to produce the amount of cotton needed to make a single T-shirt and that amounts to 900-days-worth of drinking water. It takes 8183 litres of water, to make a single pair of jeans. Plus, it takes a lot of energy to get it from the cotton fields to the closet. That is the whole process of manufacturing and transporting the garment. How you maintain it or take care of it also has a huge impact on the environment. One load of washing takes about 40 gallons of water, and one load of drying takes 5 times more energy compared to the energy required for washing.

The fashion industry is a massive polluter and consumer of fresh water and actually – believe it or not cotton is one of the biggest culprits. According to a 2017 report, in 2015 alone, a staggering 79 billion cubic meters of water was consumed by the fashion industry. This figure is expected to increase by 50% by 2030. [ Ecological Footprint Bible # THECONSCIOUSCHALLENGE] Dyeing of fabrics alone, takes up 5.9 trillion litres of water (World Resources Institute). Most of the dying and processing of fabrics is done in the most water stressed regions of the world.

Cotton uses greater quantity of insecticides and pesticides compared to any other crop in the world. The conventional cotton fields—while comprising only 2.5 percent of the world’s cultivated land—use 22.5 percent of chemical insecticides and 10 percent of pesticides used in agriculture. These chemicals harm the health of field workers and damage the surrounding ecosystems and can also be carcinogenic.

A great way to reduce the impact on the environment is to buy only certified organic cotton. It is grown without the use of synthetic pesticides, insecticides, or fertilizers, which means you won’t be contributing to water pollution. However, a huge amount of water is required to grow the organic cotton too! As of now, organic cotton makes up only about 1 percent of the 227,000 metric tonnes of cotton grown worldwide [Patagonia.com].

Morgan says, “If you’re growing cotton organically in the right places, it can actually use relatively little water and have a relatively low footprint [when it comes to water pollution].”

The global water footprint of cotton products is estimated to be 233 billion cubic metres per year. It is an average of 33m3/year per capita - equal to an average of 238 bathtubs of water per person per year[waterfootprint.org]

Dyes used in fabrics contain cancer causing chemicals like cadmium, lead, chromium, and mercury. Other harmful chemicals are also released into water bodies. We should move towards eco-friendly alternative fabrics like hemp, lyocell, flax, linen, bamboo, etc.
Brands using raw, natural, renewable or recycled materials are on the rise. Seek out brands that use waterless dyeing and low-impact dyes if you can, as they help reduce the pollution of waterways. Brands such as Outland Denim, use innovative technology, including laser equipment, to cut down on the amount of water needed for washing and bleaching of their denim by up to 65 percent [Vogue India]. 

 The amount of fresh water available on earth is limited, but the demand is constantly growing. So, we must get smarter about how we use water. Sustainable conscious choices can make a difference. By taking care of the clothes or buying good quality, we can extend their lifespan. Approximately, 20 billion cubic meters of water goes in washing clothes each year, globally! [ Ecological Footprint Bible # THECONSCIOUSCHALLENGE] Avoiding washing clothes when not needed and drying them in the sun can save a lot of water and energy. Also, we should always wash full wash loads of clothes and not just a few items. Even skipping drying and ironing can save a lot of energy and saves a third of its carbon footprint.

In short - buying less, buying well, and making it last – that is the key! Even small steps taken by us can have a huge impact.

“Buy less. Choose well. Make it last” -Vivienne Westwood.

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